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Tertulia

photo by Liz Barclay

New York doesn’t lack for tapas, but when chef Seamus Mullen opened Tertulia in 2011, he wanted to share a different side of Spanish cuisine. Inspired by northern Spain’s cider houses, Mullen created a warm, unpretentious place where you can drink Basque sidras, of course, but also try Iberico ham and wine from the Canary Islands, then feast from a list of well-executed tapas and shareable family-size dishes. The restaurant is anchored by its wood-fired grill; any item that has passed over that flame, be it octopus, cauliflower, or steak (to name a few), guarantees a deeply satisfying dining experience. Look for classics like potatoes crusted in pimentón and drizzled with garlicky aioli, and anchovies paired with roasted tomatoes and sheep’s-milk cheese.