Shu Jiao Fu Zhou Cuisine

photo by Robert Menzer

Chinatown’s eastern streets have filled with Fujianese immigrants in recent decades, turning the area into a Little Fu Zhou. And in the heart of this neighborhood, you’ll find Shu Jiao Fu Zhou Cuisine, a rickety dive awash in harsh fluorescent glare. A handful of noodle soups swim with everything from fish balls to beef tendon, and pork-packed dumplings here are sold by the half-dozen to diners — and by the frozen 50 to in-the-know shoppers. But the dish you’ll see on most tables, and the one that makes Shu Jiao our favorite Fujian spot, is the platter of long flat noodles in thick, sticky peanut-butter sauce. Speckled with just a few scallions, drizzled with soy sauce, and lightly redolent of the oil they’re sautéed in, they’re served on a Styrofoam plate and cost just $2, which makes this gem one to keep in your back pocket for a rainy, between-paychecks day.