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Great NY Noodletown

photo by Robert Menzer

One of Chinatown’s great late-night bargains, Great NY Noodletown — a mainstay of the community for more than 30 years — specializes in roasted meats and, true to its name, an array of springy noodles and steaming dumpling soups. Noodletown also combines the two for a wonton soup on steroids, with a deep bronze broth; buoyant, thin-skinned wontons; and slices of rouge-ringed Chinese roast pork. From its corner spot, the downtown standby has extended its culinary influence beyond the neighborhood’s borders, counting culinary deity David Chang as a fan: The chef readily admits that the ginger scallion noodles at Momofuku Noodle Bar take inspiration from the Noodletown version, in which tender lo mein noodles rest beneath a Hong Kong–inspired slurry of mashed ginger and slivers of scallion. Meats hang in the front window, and the dining room possesses all the charm of a racetrack bathroom, but it’s worth braving all that and the communal seating — which has landed many an unsuspecting diner in the midst of a heated family argument — for a taste of noodle and char siu heaven.