In an area once dubbed the Tortilla Triangle for the quantity of tortillerias in operation, Tortilleria Mexicana Los Hermanos is the most hospitable. The low-slung warehouse on Starr Street is a model for growth — the tortilla factory initially churned out hot corn disks for the neighborhood, and then the Lazaro family started hawking tacos from a cart out in front. That operation eventually became implanted in a corner of the factory, and then turned into a health-department-certified sit-down establishment. The tortilleria still produces thousands of tortillas a day, permeating the block with a warm, toasted-corn fragrance. Place your order at the counter, then take a seat inside the restaurant, where Mexican families dine next to the hungover, tattooed creative class and the occasional Manhattanite who makes the trip on Anthony Bourdain's word. Los Hermanos offers tacos, huaraches, and tostadas, and you can choose your favorite filling or topping. We like the cecina (salted beef), and the chorizo, which the kitchen cooks up with cubes of potato. Most plates come clobbered with shredded lettuce, cold tomatoes, and sour cream, but you can request that your tacos skip the trip through the salad bar. The tortillas are, of course, always fresh. Buy a package before heading home.
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