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Taqueria Izucar

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1503 Myrtle Avenue

718-456-0569

Open daily, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Photo by Bradley Hawks

Most closets are bigger than Taqueria Izucar, one of the best taquerias in Brooklyn — if not the entire five boroughs. Suadero is the game here: It’s a cut similar to brisket, marinated with vinegar, garlic, and oregano, then braised until tender and finally crisped on the flattop and double-wrapped in tiny tortillas with a smattering of onion and cilantro. Taqueria Izucar is unpredictable. Sometimes there’s al pastor spinning on the tromo top, sometimes not. Occasionally the kitchen decides to brew up tepache, the fermented beverage made from pineapple husks. And not infrequently the storefront is closed when you need a taco most. Taqueria Izucar rolls on its own time. But when you do pick up one of those coaster-size tortillas exhaling steam, the suadero hot with a striking minerality and the salsas bright and spicy with green and red chiles, everything else is forgotten.