«

Taci’s Beyti

»

1955 Coney Island Avenue

718-627-5750

Open daily, noon to 11 p.m.

tacisbeyti.com

Photo by David Penner

The late Taci Bek opened this brick-walled dining hall along a nondescript section of Midwood's Coney Island Avenue in 1988, and in the nearly 30 years since, he, his son Ersin, and a crew of Turkish cooks turned Taci's Beyti into one of the best Turkish restaurants in town. Inspired by the kebab-centric ocakbasi that dot the Turkish countryside, rustic recipes and presentations rule. After securing your seat, head to the back of the restaurant to peruse an array of meze — a lush eggplant purée, say, and artichoke hearts sautéd with potatoes — then settle in for the main event. Almost calzone-like in appearance, slices of baked meat pie called pide come filled with air-dried pastirma, the forebear of modern-day pastrami. Spit-charred lamb takes a spicy hit from sweet red chiles. Like Chinese weddings at dim sum banquets, there's a good chance you'll run across your fair share of Turkish family gatherings. Join in a toast before turning back to platters of whole trout and branzino, seared and succulent from the grill. The convivial, shareable feast feels well-suited to the restaurant's look-the-other-way BYOB policy. Meals end with inexpensive and filling desserts: Pan-fried milk pudding tastes like crème brûlée; and kunefe, a Turkish soufflé, is baked to order, its filling of velvety sweet cheese offset by a crunchy crust of shredded noodles.