«

St. Anselm

»

Photo by Bradley Hawks

Joe Carroll swears St. Anselm is not a steakhouse. It certainly didn't start that way. When it opened in 2009, building on the success of Carroll's barbecue joint Fette Sau across the street and beer bar Spuyten Duyvil next door, it served meaty snacks like scrapple and hot dogs, which you'd have to wash down elsewhere because St. Anselm had no liquor license. Even now the restaurant doesn't stock a wide range of beef cuts. There are only three regular steak offerings: a hanger, which comes doused in garlic butter; a New York strip drizzled with au poivre sauce; and a Flintstonian tomahawk ribeye for two. But so seductive and stunning are those two items that diners tend to overlook delicious alternatives like a chicken brined in sweet tea and a hulking lamb shoulder blade chop. We’re not going to deny it — we too love those steaks. The meat, infused with the tang of the grill you can see sizzling just beyond the bar, and seasoned with salt and pepper, comes drooling savory juice from its ruby center. It is, quite simply, some of the best steak served in any restaurant in the city. What's more, it costs a fraction of what you’ll fork over for beef at one of midtown’s institutions. You'll likely remember the wedge salad you began with, and the unfamiliar and moderately priced glass of red wine you paired to your meal. But you're equally likely to sally forth from St. Anselm and tell your friends all about the great steakhouse where you just dined.

355 Metropolitan Avenue

718-384-5054

Monday to Thursday 5 to 11 p.m., Friday 5 p.m. to midnight, Saturday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to midnight, Sunday 11 a.m to 3 p.m. and 5 to 11 p.m.