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Peter Pan Donut & Pastry Shop

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Photo by Bradley Hawks

727 Manhattan Avenue

718-389-3676

Monday to Friday 4:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., Saturday 5 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sunday 5:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

peterpan-donuts.com

Peter Pan Donut & Pastry Shop was established in the then predominantly Polish neighborhood of Greenpoint more than six decades ago, when the Dodgers still called Brooklyn home. It would be hard to fathom the shop existing anywhere else in the city. It's a neighborhood spot that locals hold dear, a place that new residents go as a rite of passage, and a tasty destination for those not lucky enough to live close by. Here owners Christos and Donna Siafakas, along with their son Peter, turn out about twenty flavors of doughnuts using recipes handed down from the original owners. The varieties are unfussy and run the gamut from sour cream to chocolate to cake and sugar to toasted coconut. The best seller is the red velvet doughnut, fashioned after the classic Southern cake. "When it gets a little warmer outside, we slice them open and fill ’em with cherry amaretto ice cream," Donna Siafakas tells the Voice. "They're really good." Indeed they are. Peter Pan also serves a fine egg sandwich on a fresh-baked bagel or poppy seed roll, not to mention filled éclairs, cinnamon buns, and crullers. People come as much for the atmosphere as for the food, posting up on stools at the S-shape counter with a newspaper while staffers dressed in I Love Lucy–esque green-and-pink dresses serve them coffee and pastries. Hit the place at 10:30 a.m. if you want to see the gathering of regulars. (A morning trip also ensures that your favorite doughnut flavor won't have run out.)