Northeast Kingdom


18 Wyckoff Avenue


Monday to Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 to 11 p.m., Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 11:30 a.m., Saturday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 6 to 11:30 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 6 to 11 p.m.


Photo by Dominic Perri

Few restaurants are as indicative of their surrounding neighborhood as Northeast Kingdom is in 2015 Bushwick. Its intimate interior — partial brick façade, daily specials on chalkboards, stag-bust sconces — evokes an organic twee that never feels forced, a du jour hipness that obscures the fact that this farm-to-table mainstay has been consistently superb for a decade and helped spur the proliferation of this aesthetic. Husband-and-wife co-owners Paris Smeraldo and Meg Lipke populate their menu with organic produce and seasonally foraged fare — they're wholeheartedly committed to the farms and forests of rural New England. Go during the cold months and you might find unctuous pork ragout, the pasta slathered in layers of creamy ricotta and enhanced by shallots, pistachios, and generous amounts of every Bushwicker's favorite ingredient: kale. But don't let all these gentle vegetables fool you — the real winner here is the burger. Ground beef sourced from upstate New York is salted and seasoned, topped with tobacco onion, Vermont cheddar, and house-made mayo. Easily one of the best burgers in Brooklyn, it has been known to bring grown men to tears. Match it with craft suds poured on tap, or a brown spirit (perhaps mixed with ginger ale). This, friend, is what Bushwick is all about.