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Noodle Pudding

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38 Henry Street

718-625-3737

Tuesday to Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 p.m., Sunday 5 to 10 p.m.

Photo by Dominic Perri

Brooklyn’s claim to great Italian restaurants ranges from old trattorias to modern takes on the motherland’s disparate regions. Somewhere in the middle is Noodle Pudding, a signless Brooklyn Heights eatery that has been feeding locals for two decades. Antonio Migliaccio (migliaccio, a sweet, pasta-based dish from the island of Ischia — a noodle pudding — isn’t on the menu, sad to say) opened this place in the Nineties, fusing his Neapolitan culinary upbringing with what he could find in the local markets. Today the restaurant runs at its own unique cadence, akin to the haphazard, welcoming ambiance you'd encounter in Italy, as opposed to the measured march of a typical New York dinner. If you're after seasonal ingredients and contemporary presentations, turn your attention to the specials list, which is nearly as long as the menu and includes pastas, appetizers, and entrées. The five-course “Trust Me” tasting menu may be offered, likely served by members of the kitchen staff. Many diners come for the mainstays, however, for those are the dishes that bring comfort. Order a pasta or two (half-portions, if you want) — tagliatelle bolognese, say, or rigatoni alla siciliana — pair your meal with a bottle or two of inexpensive red wine, and finish with tiramisu. Be sure to say goodbye to the bartender on the way out — he'll be waving at you.