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Mile End

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97A Hoyt Street

718-852-7510

Monday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m., Tuesday to Friday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 5 p.m. to midnight, Saturday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 5 p.m. to midnight, Sunday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.

mileenddeli.com

Five years ago, Noah Bernamoff had scant restaurant experience, but the Canadian native was tired of delicatessens that focused on quantity rather than quality. Inspired by the straightforward Montreal-style kosher fare he grew up eating, and determined to bring the lunch counter into the 21st century, he opened Mile End in Boerum Hill. Bernamoff started with a menu of about eight specialties from his hometown. The poutine (gravy-soaked, cheese-curd-speckled fries) and the dry-cured brisket in the sandwiches, in particular, drew famously long lines. Those items still command a fervent following, but Mile End has since morphed into a full-fledged restaurant, complete with outstanding assortments of craft beers and boutique wines. Menu offerings have expanded to include more Jewish staples and Middle Eastern–tinged selections. (For our money, the chicken schnitzel is an especially excellent addition.) Although Bernamoff sees Mile End as a comfortable neighborhood joint, he considers himself and his concept a disrupter of the status quo — and the fact that he’s right is evidenced by the dozens of similar concepts that have opened throughout the nation. That's fine with him; he's pleased to have started a conversation about modern delis. “People are interested in how we've given it a facelift," he says.