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Lucali

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575 Henry Street

718-858-4086

Open daily, 6 to 11 p.m.

lucali.com

Photo by Dominic Perri

Here is how you approach a meal at Lucali: Put your name on the list and then wander down the street to pick out a bottle of wine — you're going to need to kill some time before you get a table, and the restaurant is BYOB. Consider pairing your pizza with something special — these pies deserve it. Former marble fabricator and longtime Carroll Gardens resident Mark Iacono opened Lucali on a residential street in 2006, teaching himself to make pizza in order to save a candy shop he'd loved throughout his youth. He built everything in the space, including the wood-burning oven. Today, as it did nearly ten years ago, the restaurant makes and serves only three items: pizza, calzones, and meatballs. No antipasti. No salads. Not even white pizza. The pies here are Neapolitan, with a heavier focus on traditional New York style, and they come out of the oven slightly charred and smoky, with a super-crisp crust and a tangy marinara made from Iacono's grandmother's recipe. Calzones, filled with sweet ricotta, are a sleeper item — do not forgo them when you visit. Toppings are basic: pepperoni, hot peppers, grilled artichoke hearts, et cetera. Nothing at Lucali is overcomplicated, but everything is dialed in and delicious. Accept your spot in line and concentrate on choosing a good bottle.