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Hand Pull Noodle and Dumpling House

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Historically, Bensonhurst was known for its large population of first- and second-generation Italian immigrants. But like the rest of the borough (and city of New York), the only constant is that it's always in flux. The area is now home to multifarious ethnic communities as well as stalwarts of the old guard, a mix that lends itself to excellent diversity in dining options. For proof, head to 18th Avenue, where you'll find a hodgepodge assortment of Chinese and Italian eateries and shops. Among them — and just a few doors down from a 40-year-old ravioli shop — sits Hand Pull Noodle and Dumpling House, an ideal example of the neighborhood's new Fujian roots. Since 2008 the unassuming automat has been stretching and stuffing dough for a steady following of adoring crowds. Its namesake items are some of the best around. Dumplings, steamed or fried, are chock-full of fragrant pork; noodles are pulled thin, then stir-fried or served in aromatic broth. Flavor combinations of the latter run from an Americanized spicy buffalo wing to a traditional combo of beef, beef tendon, tripe, pork chop, and egg.

7201 18th Avenue

718-232-6191

Open daily, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

handpullnoodleanddumplinghouse.com

Photo by Robyn Lee