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The Good Fork

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Photo by Dominic Perri

391 Van Brunt Street

718-643-6636

Tuesday to Friday 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m. Closed Monday.

goodfork.com

Created in Red Hook in 2005 by husband-and-wife team Ben Schneider and Sohui Kim, The Good Fork has always been a passion project: He carved the warm wooden ceiling and she put her mom's kimchi on the menu (in fact, the kimchi is occasionally made by her mother, if she's in town for a visit). Kim, who eschewed law school for cooking, worked at Blue Hill and Annisa before branching out on her own. Her food draws both from her polished fine-dining experience and her Korean roots, so there are always dumplings and Korean-style steak and eggs. The latter is a highlight: “We marinate the skirt steak in bulgogi, and it's served with kimchi fried rice,” Schneider says. Additional fixtures on an otherwise ever-changing menu include braised boar shank with apricots, a solid burger, and roasted chicken with a black-bean butter sauce. “We have people who come in all the time just for the chicken,” says Schneider. “Thankfully, they're obsessed!” It was the neighbors' obsession that helped the Good Fork to reopen within a few months of Hurricane Sandy, which flooded the restaurant knee-high in muck. The string lights were up again in time for summer, welcoming people to the patio to relax with a beer — local, of course. The couple's Red Hook roots run deep: “We lived here before we opened the restaurant,” Schneider says. “We love our neighborhood.” So look out for wares from neighborhood artisans — Red Hook wines, Steve's Key Lime Pie, Widow Jane Bourbon, and Uncouth Vermouth.