Although he made a name for himself with his roving Morris Grilled Cheese truck and its highbrow sandwiches, Michael Jacober wanted to do something special for a brick-and-mortar restaurant. Pivoting from the original New American sandwich-heavy menu he started with, the Per Se vet rebooted, ditching the things-between-bread formula that had worked so well in the past. Inspired by his historically Caribbean neighborhood, he now serves West Indian food in a cheerful, aquamarine dining room. The area is gentrifying, and the remade Glady's along with it, but Jacober and his team have taken pains to represent the cuisine in earnest, and the community has responded with zeal. The kitchen imports fresh green wood from Jamaica to slow-cook sumptuous jerk pork and smoky chicken, both priced under $10 and fit for sharing. Lobster's a worthy splurge thanks to the hearth it's cooked in. Pepper shrimp come bathed in piquant oil, and smoked sausage eats almost as voluptuously as rich goat curry. Sides clock in at $3 for plates like lacquered sweet plantains, rice and peas, and oblong cornbread fritters called festivals. Drinks maven Shannon Mustipher has assembled a rum selection that's one of the best in the borough, if not the city. Even with available reserve pours like Samaroli Caribbean rum, the frozen drinks steal the show. They come in flavors like "Dark 'N' Stormy" or the seasonal "Mauby Toddy," a chilly take on a winter warmer with allspice-infused bourbon and mauby bark, a bitter Caribbean root. In offering elevated comfort food to Caribbean expats at affordable prices, Jacober and Glady's honor the neighborhood. They deserve no less from us.
© 2015 Village Voice, LLC, All Rights Reserved