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Fette Sau

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Photo by Bradley Hawks

354 Metropolitan Avenue

718-963-3404

Monday to Thursday 5 to 11 p.m., Friday to Sunday noon to 11 p.m.

fettesaubbq.com

Before barbecue restaurants proliferated in Brooklyn (and Manhattan, for that matter), and before Williamsburg was a hotbed of trendy concepts, there was Fette Sau, a smoked-meat joint that Joe and Kim Carroll initially intended to be a bar. Here, as in famed Texas barbecue parlors, a massive line snakes from the counter through the industrial dining room and courtyard and out to the front gate. When it's your turn (and that'll take some time), you'll order your meat by the pound. Your best bet is to amass a sampler of everything, and don't miss the Black Angus brisket or pulled pork; management says "riots would ensue" if those items ever came off the menu. Choose a couple of sides, like German potato salad and burnt-end baked beans, then pay at the cash register and take your seat at one of the communal tables, either inside or out-. Before you tuck into your carnivorous dinner, you'll want to visit the bar, which sports an extensive collection of North American bourbons, whiskeys, and ryes, not to mention a cider and beers predominantly sourced from New York and states nearby. If all goes as it ought to, you'll leave stuffed and a little tipsy, your clothes and hair infused with the smell of smoke. And you'll have had one hell of a good time.