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Delaney Barbecue: BrisketTown

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359 Bedford Avenue

718-701-8909

Winter hours: Wednesday to Friday 5 to 11 p.m., Saturday and Sunday noon to 11 p.m., Monday and Tuesday closed. Spring hours: Monday through Friday 5 to 11 p.m., Saturday and Sunday noon to 11 p.m.

Photo by Bradley Hawks

Delaney Barbecue: BrisketTown officially opened in November 2012, but it existed long before Daniel Delaney signed the lease, sight unseen, on the storefront a couple of blocks from his apartment. The dream began as a lone smoker on a rooftop, then evolved into a Texas Barbecue Brisket supper club, a smoked-meat ordering service, a stall at various events and markets, and finally, bricks and mortar. “People have been so supportive,” Delaney says. “I mean, who crowdfunds a neighborhood restaurant?” Over the years, as Delaney Barbecue has moved from counter to table service, the food has evolved, too — though Delaney is still as focused as ever on the Texas barbecue ideal. “The sausage took months to figure out,” the owner says. “We moved from a two-hour hot smoke to a seven-hour cold smoke, a classic charcuterie technique, so that it never gets dry.” Don't miss the salt-and-pepper-crusted brisket, funky with deep, complex smoke, that gives the place its name and reputation, nor the juicy pork ribs, meltingly tender and sweet. Sides change seasonally: In summer the tomato salad is tossed with vinaigrette of beef fat, and in winter you might find honey-glazed cornbread. And be sure to save room for a slice of pie, made daily in house by Micah Phillips, formerly of Blue Hill, Fatty Cue, and Compose. “The chess pie haunts me,” says Delaney. “There's an Oreo crust, a chocolate buttermilk custard with mint, and a dark chocolate glaze scattered with cocoa nibs and sea salt. Stupid good.”