«

The Commodore

»

366 Metropolitan Avenue

718-218-7632

Monday to Friday 4 p.m. to 4 a.m., Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m. to 4 a.m.

Photo by Dominic Perri

Five years strong, The Commodore remains a vital hub in food-focused, restaurant-saturated Williamsburg. Cheers is a tired analogy, but it's a good one for this local drinking hole, which succeeds in shooting past dive-bar aspirations of beer-and-shot combos, drunken flirting, and cheap, greasy food. Stephen Tanner — who did time at other neighborhood staples such as Pies 'n' Thighs, Egg, and Diner — puts out a menu that's an all-hits list. Even if you stray from your regular order for green-chile pozole or seasonal vegetables, disappointment is unlikely. And when you can't decide between the superlative nachos, the painfully spicy hot fish, the cheeseburger pinned together with a paper drink umbrella, or the fried-chicken platter (three crunchy thighs lashed with black pepper and served with sweet vinegar and buttery biscuits), you may as well order one of each and call in reinforcements — or ask for another round of Schlitz. With maroon banquettes, dark wood paneling, Road House on loop, and a taxidermied fish hanging on one wall, it's a bit like your crummy uncle Skip's basement bachelor lair, but with exceedingly better blended piña coladas. Sweet, boozy, crowned with a maraschino cherry, and finished with a long float of amaretto, the drink makes for an excellent dessert that will knock you on your ass.