Cholula Deli is the archetypal Bushwick taqueria, or, more accurately, family of taquerias — there are three of them. Angelo Tapia and his family opened the first on Myrtle Avenue more than a decade ago. It started as a grocery selling Mexican ingredients like locally made tortillas, paletas (fruit ice pops), and bundles of cilantro, and it sprouted a taqueria not too long after. Tapia opened the second location on Wyckoff in 2008 and a third on Broadway shortly after that. All of the Cholulas now operate as grocery stores, with deli cases, dry goods, and kitchens turning out classic Mexican: tacos, tortas, huaraches, cemitas, and stews with rice and beans. Pork, in all its guises, is particularly good here — look for it in carne enchilada stained a deep orange, as al pastor with flecks of pineapple, as humble carnitas, and as chorizo perfumed with cinnamon. The Cholulas are true neighborhood institutions, multifaceted hubs to pick up toilet paper and a milky coffee, sit with a plate of guacamole and a book, or treat a cheap date.
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