It has been four years since chef Kedija Srage first served her meatless wots and tibs as part of a series of interactive pop-up dining experiences around the city and became a fixture at Kings County's weekend food orgy Smorgasburg. Eventually she and her team settled in this roomy Bushwick space, in a squat building next to a vacant lot. Here at Bunna Cafe, Srage delivers a colorful array of vegan stews and salads, served alone or as part of combination platters arranged on top of injera. (Bunna's recipe for the porous sourdough flatbread is fluffier and less sour than its peers'.) Ethiopian beers and honey wine are available, and cocktails — like the “Ethiopian Ice Road Trucker,” a mix of stout beer, bourbon, sunflower milk, and Coke that's halfway between a boilermaker and a milkshake — are particularly inspired. Coffee beans are roasted throughout the day and served espresso-style. Srage and café owners Sam Saverance and Liyuw Ayalew have also carved out time four nights a week to perform a traditional coffee ceremony, allowing an audience to observe the roasting process and drink the results. This is still Brooklyn, of course, and Bunna gets packed during brunch, when everyone seems to be sipping on gorgeous “espris” juices: artsy drinks layered like a pousse-café, with levels of mango, papaya, and avocado purée.
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